Category: Marketing

This year marks a milestone for Tahitian cultured pearls, celebrating six decades since their debut. Born from the bold vision of pioneers, these unique gems – first introduced as “Bora Bora pearls” at Papeete’s Chamber of Commerce in February 1965 – have risen to become global symbols of luxury, despite market fluctuations.

From Mother-of-Pearl to Cultured Gems

Pearl farming’s roots trace to the 19th century when Polynesia exported 30+ tons annually of mother-of-pearl for button manufacturing. “Authorities sought early solutions to protect overharvested oyster beds,” explains pearl historian Jeanne Lecourt. Key milestones:

• 1827: British scientist Hugh Cuming identifies Pinctada margaritifera, the region’s endemic pearl oyster.
• 1930s: Frenchman François Hervé attempts Japan-inspired grafting in Apataki (unsuccessfully).
• 1961: Jean-Marie Domard achieves Polynesia’s first successful graft with Japanese expertise.

The Golden Era

After relocating operations to Bora Bora (1963), the first official Tahitian pearls launched in 1965. By the 1980s-90s, over 1,000 farms flourished across the archipelago.

Modern Challenges: The Label Dilemma

Despite being France’s only locally produced gemstone, Tahitian pearls lack official quality/origin certification. “Cook Islands growers use the same oysters and can call theirs ‘Tahitian pearls,’” notes Lecourt. Industry debates persist:

• Should certification apply only to premium pearls (like Japan’s Hanadama, which commands 3x higher prices)?
• How to address price disparities (from 1 million Fcfp gems to “reject” pearls sharing the same name)?

As the anniversary reignites discussions, the sector looks to Japan’s tiered certification model as inspiration to reinforce Tahitian pearls’ exclusivity.

Chinese actress and influencer Ni Ni has brought unprecedented visibility to Tahitian pearls through her role in the 2023 internationally-released film Lost in the Stars. Throughout the promotional campaign, the star consistently appeared adorned with black pearl jewelry, particularly pieces featuring Polynesian lagoon pearls. Her refined style captivated millions, whether on television sets or across her social media platforms.

According to a Polynesian pearl dealer, this organic media exposure (though not sponsored) significantly impacted the Chinese market, contributing to 2023’s dramatic sales recovery.

An Unprecedented Export Boom

2023 marked a turning point for Tahitian pearls, with exports skyrocketing to 16 billion Fcfp (up from 6 billion the previous year). Hong Kong solidified its position as the primary gateway to Asian markets. This surge reflects growing global demand for both traditional round pearls and keishi pearls.

The upward trend began in June 2023, peaked in October, then saw a slight slowdown. Keishis, in particular, experienced a meteoric price rise—once sold for 150–500 Fcfp per gram, some now fetch over 3,000 Fcfp due to their rarity and unique organic shapes.

The Keishi Renaissance

Long considered marginal, keishi pearls are now reclaiming the spotlight. Their irregular, character-filled forms appeal to clients seeking originality. Luxury jewelers like Mikimoto have further legitimized the trend by incorporating keishis into high-end collections.

While jewelers adjust pricing to reflect this demand, consumer enthusiasm remains undiminished. Keishi designs now symbolize modernity and boldness, aligning perfectly with evolving market preferences.

2024: Cautious Optimism

Despite 2023’s record-breaking results, 2024 presents uncertainties. The industry must navigate fashion trends, limited keishi production capacity, and potential market saturation. One question lingers: Will the “Ni Ni effect” sustain its momentum, or will it remain a singular peak in Tahitian pearls’ recent history?

On Friday evening, in the elegant setting of the Musée de la Perle in Papeete, Robert Wan celebrated the 50th anniversary of his company, Tahiti Pearls, in grand style, surrounded by family, close friends, and numerous distinguished guests.
Half a century of unwavering dedication to shining a light on the Poerava (Tahitian black pearl) on the international stage.

It was in 1973 that Robert Wan took the reins of Tahiti Pearls. Just a year later, a pivotal meeting with Professor Sato in Japan led him to collaborate with the grandson of Kokichi Mikimoto, the pioneer of modern pearl cultivation. This strategic alliance marked the beginning of an extraordinary journey.

By 1977, he acquired his first pearl harvest. What followed was a meteoric rise: Robert Wan built a veritable empire, acquiring iconic atolls such as Marutea Sud, Nengo Nengo, and Aukena, transforming them into crown jewels of Polynesian pearl farming. In 1976, he officially elevated the Tahitian pearl to the status of a precious gemstone in collaboration with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), securing the Poerava’s place on the global luxury jewelry map.

His relentless work ethic and pursuit of excellence were recognized in 1994 with the prestigious Lauriers d’Or de la Qualité (Golden Laurels of Quality). But beyond accolades, he embodies a true vision: the Tahitian pearl as a symbol of refinement, culture, and authenticity.

During the anniversary celebration, the businessman reaffirmed his unshakable faith in the future of the Poerava. To overcome industry challenges, he made bold decisions: launching his own brand, transforming production into luxury jewelry, and positioning the pearl as an exceptional product.

As for succession, the legacy appears secure. His grandson, Johnny, actively involved in the business, is following in his grandfather’s footsteps. At 50 years of success, Robert Wan remains driven by the same passion and renewed ambition to share this unique gem—born in Polynesia’s lagoons—with the world.

(Note: “Poerava” refers to the prized black Tahitian pearl, retaining its Polynesian name for cultural significance.)

French Polynesia’s pearl industry marked a historic milestone as the Tahitian Pearl Federation (FPPF) hosted the inaugural “Poe Ma’ohi” (The Soul of the Pearl) exhibition at Hilton Tahiti. This celebration of the 60th anniversary of Tahitian pearl cultivation comes exactly a decade after its 50th anniversary was observed in Paris, now rightfully honored in its homeland.

A Festival of Culture and Commerce

Supported by a 3 million Fcfp government grant, the event transcends traditional trade shows, positioning itself as:

• A living archive of pearl heritage
• A creative laboratory for artisans
• A global platform for industry dialogue

FPPF President Marcelle Howard emphasized the gem’s unique status: “Tahitian pearls represent France’s only organic gemstone – a Polynesian treasure that demands protection and promotion.”

Creative Showcase Highlights

Under the federation’s motto “Queen of Pearls and Pearl of Queens”, the exhibition features:
Competition Categories:

1. Fine Jewelry (Joaillerie)
2. Artisan Jewelry (Artisan bijoutier)
3. Traditional Craft (Artisan traditionnel)

Notable Participants:

• Miliani Création
• Temanus Création
• Hokahei Pearl
• Poe Tahiti
• Lycée Saint-Joseph vocational school

Visitors will determine the winning designs through popular vote, with awards presented at the closing ceremony.

Immersive Educational Partnership

The event partners with Moorea’s Fare Natura ecomuseum, offering:

• VR experiences showcasing Polynesian marine ecosystems
• Educational programs connecting pearl culture with ocean conservation

Official Call to Action

Blue Economy Minister Tearii Alpha opened the event with a powerful message:
“Climate change and human pressure threaten our lagoons. We must build sustainable value chains and inspire youth to safeguard this legacy – because the future lies in transmission.”

Off the eastern shores of Hong Kong, a handful of enthusiasts are breathing new life into a nearly forgotten tradition. At the forefront is Yan Wa-tat, a former banker turned researcher, who patiently tends to 2,000 Akoya pearl oysters on his floating raft—hoping to revive an industry that once thrived in these waters.

Until the 1980s, pearl farming was deeply woven into Hong Kong’s economic fabric. But overfishing, pollution, and foreign competition led to its collapse. Now, Yan is blending ancient techniques with cutting-edge science to reverse this decline.

His pioneering work involves embedding RFID chips into the nuclei implanted within oysters—allowing pearl development tracking without disturbing the mollusks. This breakthrough could revolutionize quality control and traceability in the global pearl industry.

The efforts are showing promise. Last March, fishermen inspired by Yan’s project harvested local Akoya pearls—the first such yield in decades. Among them, Leung Kam-ming now cultivates 30,000 oysters and sees bright prospects for this renewed sector.

Yet challenges remain: attracting younger generations. Of the thousand registered fishing rafts in Hong Kong waters, 90% sit unused. Yan hopes demonstrating the craft’s profitability and sustainability will spark renewed interest.

With passion, patience, and technological ingenuity, Hong Kong may once again become a respected name in the prestigious world of pearls—proving that even forgotten traditions can find new luster.

From the remote village of Qing Xi in Guangdong province to the display windows of the world’s most prestigious capitals, Robert Wan’s life has been crafted like a pearl: slowly, patiently, layer by layer. This extraordinary journey is chronicled in Paule Laudon’s recent book Robert Wan, La route de la perle (Robert Wan: The Pearl Route), published by Au Vent des îles.

The product of two years of research, interviews, and travels, the book unveils the many facets of this discreet yet visionary man often called the “Pearl Emperor.” From his daily life in Tahiti to his global ambitions, through dark chapters of history including nuclear testing and economic crises, Laudon paints the portrait of a resilient pioneer.

Wan’s passion for pearls began almost by chance in 1972 but became his life’s work. These living jewels grew into the heart of his empire. Laudon accompanies him to Marutea atoll in the Tuamotu archipelago, revealing the gestures, choices, and philosophy of a man who cultivates pearls as one might cultivate an art of living.

The book traces 29 milestones of an exceptional destiny, weaving between Chinese traditions and Polynesian horizons, from Paris to Tokyo, Doha to Dubai. A path marked by triumphs and doubts, yet always guided by an unshakable belief in beauty and patience.

Now in his 80s, Robert Wan shows no signs of stopping. New projects take shape: a museum in Macau, markets to conquer in Russia and South America. “Robert acts. Robert savors. Robert reflects,” writes Laudon. And above all, Robert continues to dream.

Once considered almost exclusively feminine adornments, Tahitian black pearls are now captivating a growing number of men—a trend Polynesian jewelers have been closely observing in recent years.

Luc Arles, manager of Arles Luc jewelry store, attributes this shift to changing male attitudes: “Men are increasingly seeking jewelry. Some, like metrosexuals, pay more attention to their appearance, adopting a more refined or even hipster style. Polynesians have always cherished pearls and feel deeply connected to these ocean treasures.”

To meet this emerging demand, jewelers are showcasing their creativity by designing masculine pearl jewelry that blends Polynesian influences with contemporary tastes. “I try to merge Polynesian motifs with tattoo-inspired designs while incorporating pearls to maintain a masculine aesthetic,” explains Arles.

This cultural evolution finds particular resonance among younger generations. “It’s great that men can wear pearls too,” remarks one local, while another adds, “They look just as good on men.”

To better understand this market shift, the Tahitian Pearl Association of French Polynesia recently conducted groundbreaking research—the first of its kind—analyzing the local black pearl market. The study reveals key consumer trends and provides valuable insights to help jewelers cater to their growing male clientele.

The Tahitian Pearl Association of French Polynesia (TPAFP) has launched a campaign titled “The Tahitian Cultured Pearl, the First Jewel of Polynesians” to reintroduce this treasure to the local population.
In this article, we explore the essential criteria for choosing the perfect pearl—a decision that may vary depending on cultural and personal preferences.

A pearl’s beauty is ultimately subjective, but several key factors can guide your selection to find the one that best suits you. Here’s an overview of the elements to consider when making your choice.

Pearl Shapes: Tahitian pearls come in three main shape categories:

• Spherical (perfect or semi-perfect)
• Symmetrical (teardrop, oval, button, semi-baroque)
• Asymmetrical (baroque)

Surface & Luster: It’s essential to examine the pearl’s surface for flaws such as rings, pits, scratches, or cracks. The luster—the way light reflects off the nacre—ranges from brilliant (excellent quality) to dull (lower quality).

Pearl Grades: Pearls are classified from TOP GEM (flawless pearls) to E (pearls with visible imperfections). This grading system evaluates surface quality, luster, and blemishes.

Additional Criteria:

• The pearl’s dominant color should be even and uniform, though secondary hues may appear.
• The nacre thickness around the nucleus plays a crucial role in durability and beauty.
• Size typically ranges from 8 to 14 mm, though some pearls can reach up to 21 mm.

In summary, selecting the ideal pearl depends on factors such as shape, surface quality, luster, grade, color, and size. The TPAFP’s campaign aims to educate Polynesians about these criteria so they can make well-informed choices when selecting a Tahitian pearl.

The Robert Wan Pearl Museum, the only museum in the world entirely dedicated to Tahitian pearls, is celebrating its 20th anniversary with an exclusive, invitation-only gala this Friday, October 5th.
This milestone marks a significant moment for the museum and for Tahiti’s pearl industry, as one of its most iconic institutions honors two decades of passion and excellence.

The event promises a memorable celebration, featuring a fashion show highlighting Robert Wan’s latest creations—a highlight for admiring the timeless elegance of Tahitian pearls. An exceptional auction will also take place, offering a unique piece to a privileged buyer. To crown this unforgettable evening, the Pearl Bar by Robert Wan will be unveiled, providing an exclusive experience for pearl and luxury enthusiasts.

A must-see in Tahiti’s tourism landscape, the museum attracts visitors from around the world every year, whether novices or connoisseurs. It offers a fascinating dive into the world of cultured pearls, revealing the mysteries of their formation and the intricate steps behind their creation. Through detailed exhibits and educational displays, the museum allows everyone to appreciate the subtleties of this unique gem.

Robert Wan, a true pioneer in pearl farming, shares his knowledge and discoveries about Tahitian cultured pearls while highlighting their symbolism across the ages. His private collection is also showcased, including the world’s largest pearl, named “La Robert Wan”—a rare treasure that captivates pearl enthusiasts and collectors alike.

This 20th-anniversary celebration is more than just a milestone: it is a tribute to the dedication and passion of a man who has devoted his life to the pearl industry, as well as a unique opportunity to discover—or rediscover—one of Tahiti’s most precious treasures.

A delegation from the Tahitian Pearl Association of Hong Kong (TPAHK), led by Ida Wong, was recently warmly welcomed in Tahiti.
This visit marks an important moment in the relationship between Tahiti and Hong Kong in the pearl industry and is part of efforts to strengthen the presence of Tahitian pearls in the Asian market.

The reception brought together several key figures from the pearl sector in French Polynesia, including Aline Baldassari-Bernard and Sabine Lorillou from the Tahitian Pearl Association of French Polynesia (TPAFP), as well as Hinano Teanotoga, Director of the Polynesian Investment Delegation, and Poerava Guilloux-Dumont, Technical Advisor for Pearl Farming at the Ministry of Primary Resources. These meetings helped strengthen ties between the two associations and discuss collaboration opportunities.

Founded in 2007, the TPAHK’s mission is to enhance the image of Tahitian cultured pearls in China. The association works to continuously promote these pearls while keeping the market informed about the latest developments in the pearl industry. It also encourages the use of Tahitian cultured pearls in a sector traditionally dominated by freshwater white pearls.

The event was an opportunity to invite the winners of the 2017 Hong Kong International Jewellery Design Competition, Zhen Le and Jian Xiang Zhou, to participate in the fifth edition of the Tahiti Study Tour. For one week, these talented jewelers will have the chance to visit the Pearl Museum, a pearl farm, and the island of Bora Bora. Photo sessions with model Kimmy Low, Miss Jewelry Hong Kong 2017, are also planned to promote and raise awareness among the new generation of jewelry designers about the unique world of Tahitian pearls.

Ida Wong, Director of TPAHK, expressed her enthusiasm for this immersive experience, made possible thanks to financial support from the country and the TPAFP. She emphasized the importance of this visit in inspiring Hong Kong jewelry professionals, hoping that this experience will encourage the creation of unique designs inspired by Tahitian cultured pearls.

In terms of figures, Hong Kong accounted for 64.6% of raw Tahitian pearl imports in 2017, totaling 9,518 kg. Over the years, Hong Kong has become a key hub for pearl trading, with many major transactions taking place at exhibitions and auctions. This strong relationship between Polynesia and Hong Kong continues to open exciting prospects for the future of Tahitian pearls in the international market.